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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS CONTENTS
HURLEY 22 REPLACEMENT RUDDER TUBE Q: Who can make me a new stainless steel Hurley 22 Replacement Rudder Tube?
A: Ryan at The Metal Clinic Ltd. Unit 6 Eastlands Boat Yard, Coal Park Lane, Swanwick, Southampton S031 7GW, Tel: 01489 582264, www.themetalclinic.co.uk . Details of the new rudder tube that Ryan made for Ben Hillwood-Harris can be found on the Rudder Page of the Technical Section RUBBING STRAKES AND WASHBOARDS Q:
Who can make me some new washboards and replace my Hurley's rubbing
strakes? Q:
How much does a Hurley 22 weigh? The imperial ton was something to do with the weight of a barrel of wine? The
Thames Measurement (TM) of a Hurley 22 would be 4.3 tons That is a formular
derived from length of hull x distance from ballast to gunwhale in inches
x 1.2 This is not the weight of the boat! It was a figure arrived at
to Q. Can you kindly suggest a good insurance company that deals with older H22s? A.
Try Simon Winter Marine on 0844 988 6136 or http://www.simonwintermarine.co.uk
and mention Nick Vass's name. Simon is aspecialist on small older
craft. Q:
How do I reduce the weatherhelm on my Hurley 22? A small amount of weatherhelm is desirable, as it gives you a feel for the helm but if weatherhelm is excessive you have to put the helm hard over, effectively putting the brakes on as the rudder would sit at a right angle and act as a flap. A ‘balanced boat’ is referred to when the forces put on the hull by both sails when it turns on its central line of lateral resistance are equal. That is when both the genoa and mainsail are equally balancing the boat out laterally. My Hurley 24 can often be described as well balanced. The high aspect rig with narrow main and large genoa balance the boat well but give a little weatherhelm which feels reassuring as the boat would round up into the wind should I fall overboard. More weatherhelm is felt during strong winds when the genoa is furled in and the mainsail takes over as the main source of propulation. Although the masts are nearly the same height, the Hurley 22 sail plan is very different. The mainsail is comparatively larger. In fact the sail area of the 22 is more despite the displacement being very different!
Therefore I would conclude that reefing in and balancing the boat by effective reefing and good quality sails is of paramount importance and a more effective way of reducing weatherhelm on a Hurley 22 than the size of the rudder alone. Weatherhelm on a Hurley 22 can be managed by reducing the size of the mainsail or increasing the size of the genoa/jib. This adjustment in sail area and relocation of the main driving force can be described as moving the centre of effort. The opposite to weatherhelm is leehelm. Weatherhelm is the tendency for a yacht to round up into the wind. If the helmsman has to pull the tiller towards him or her to make the boat go in a straight line then the boat is said to ‘carry weatherhelm’. The hull of a Hurley 22 turns on a point called the Centre of Lateral Resistance (CLR.). The CLR is the central area of the underwater profile of the yacht. The wind force on a sail creates a point called the Centre of Effort (CE). Both the main and the jib/genoa have their own CE. Both CE points combine and create the boat's Centre of Effort. If the boa's CE is aligned with the CLR then the boat will be balanced. On the Hurley 22 the CE is often aft of the CLR. The pressure of the wind turns the stern away and the bow towards the wind creating excessive weatherhelm. At this point the main should be reefed. The hull shape of the Hurley 22 makes a big difference too. The Hurley 22 has overhangs at the bow and stern so that the wetted area of the hull is kept low when the vessel is upright but the waterline length is increased when the boat is heeled over when sailing. The Hurley 22 is narrow compared to modern yachts and carries its beam just forward of the CE. This means that when the boat is heeled over the buoyant beamy part of the boat kicks in and tries to float up, pushing the bows around to windward thus creating forces exacerbating the weatherhelm. The Hurley 22 widens dramatically as you look at the profile above the waterline. Modern boats carry their beam much further aft making the boats a lot lighter on the helm. The maximum speed of a hull is around 1.4 times the square root of the waterline length in feet (or x 3.28 in metres). Therefore the hull speed is greater when the hull is heeled over and the faster the Hurley will go but conversely the more rudder is needed, putting on the brakes and slowing the boat down. It was considered that a slim boat was a fast boat, as seen on Bloodhound for example. Modern boats are very beamy and blisteringly fast but need to be sailed upright as their waterline length does not increase much when heeled as they have stubby bow stems and flat transoms. So, try trimming and reefing your sails before you buy a bigger rudder. Nick
Q:
Where is my Hull/Yard/Boat/Order Number displayed? A: Your Order/Hull/Boat Number should be displayed on a small metal plate in the cabin, screwed to the mast support transverse beam. However, they are often missing, as after 40 years they simply fall off and get lost. It might be stencilled onto the inside of locker lids or other pieces of joinery such as the saloon sole boards or on the underside of the forepeak infill. It will be a four-figure number starting with 3. (Hurley 20 example). The number will be close to but not the same as the 1,2 or 3 figure Sail Number. For example. A Hurley 20 based in Sweden 'Stella Maris' has Sail Number 295 and Order/Boat/Hull Number 3306. Hurley called the Hull Number the Boat Number but in other documents they refer to it as the Order Number and even Yard Number. All amounts to the same thing. The Hurley 20 prefix was 3. You don't need the above info to join if it has been lost in the passage of time. Prefix Numbers are as follows:
Nick Q:
The rudder has split apart on my Hurley 20. Is it because the tangs
rudder post and tangs have become corroded causing them to expend and
crack the rudder shells apart? A:
I recently had the same problem with my early H22 "Dreamer".
It is caused by water ingress to the rudder blade moulding causing the
tangs to rust and expand. I have replaced the post and tangs with a
stainless fabrication which was made using the old as a pattern. My
bearings were a little worn but rather than replace the bearings which
looked as though it might have been awkward the post was made 1/8th
inch oversize which fortuitously fitted perfectly. The blade necessitated
moulds being made from the old blade which were bonded to the fabrication
and filled with foam. I was lucky enough to come across a part-made
replacement from an ex Hurley owner and the only difficulty was that
the top of the post being oversize did not fit the stock so had to be
turned down. It is also necessary to be accurate in the alignment of
the holes for the top bolts or you will find that the tiller will be
slightly offset when in a straight line. Hope this helps - Ian C Q:
What is the rubbing strake on my Hurley 22 made from?
Q:
What toilet would have been fitted new to my Hurley 22? Q: What is the ballast ratio of my Hurley and what is the ballast made from? Also why does it heel over so much?
A: The displacement of the Hurley 18 was 1,100 kg. The ballast was 450kg giving a ballast ratio of just under 41%. Most fin or long keel Hurleys have a similar ballast ratio. However the boats aren’t that beamy and so have a slightly low buoyancy ratio compared to modern flat-bottomed beamy yachts. The Hurley 18s that I have sailed performed very well but they are only 18' and have a waterline length not much longer than a big dinghy. The Hurley 22 is stiffer; the 27 stiffer still and of course the 30 are stiffer still. The Ian Anderson yachts were inspired by the Folkboat but had slightly shorter keels to give better turning performance. Other Folk boat derived designs also heel a bit alarmingly as they lack buoyancy. No harm in that though. Other examples include the Contessa 26, Achilles, Twister, Varne 27 and Cutlass 27 etc. The Hurley 18 had several builders after the demise of Hurley Marine. Including Arthur Curnow Ltd and so knowing the exact material used for the ballast will be problematic. It is most likely that lead shot was used. Although I have known of a Hurley 22 with iron shot, which expanded cracking open the keel part of the hull. Steel strips were used on early Hurley 22s to help spread the loads of the ballast material over the keel part of the hull. I have seen several Hurley 22s and a Hurley 24/70 where cracks have appeared around these 2" wide strips. This has happened where moisture has entered the keel area over the years and rusted the strips. Air will be present around the shot balls. The strips then expand outwards into the GRP as they rust as the compacted shot allows less movement. Hurley
would have used lead shot as choice as it does not rust and is heavy
but the shot would sometimes be contaminated by scrap metal and even
old nuts, bolts and screws. Cast lead ballast would have been a better
and heavier option as air voids would not be possible between the shot
balls and the cast lead would not settle and create air pocket voids.
It is possible that the voids that you have seen are due to settling
or compacting of the shot. It might also be because the shot has stuck
together in places and formed air pockets in others. You
do however, still get air voids in cast lead ballast keels. For example
I have surveyed several Contessa 26S and 32s with voids Hurley
liked to use shot as it was cheaper and they did not have to use a foundry
to cast the keel. Most components of the boats were made in house and
George Hurley liked to be self-sufficient. Lead shot could be bought
in as a commodity. I would imagine that they might have used other filler
metals as the cost of lead went up? The ballast material would then
have been flow coated over with resin and matting to make it watertight.
But moisture can get in Q:
What kind of outboard should I buy for my Hurley 22? I have
had 4 seasons with a Mariner 4HP Sailmate, 2-stroke. This is the minimum
HP, although it was generally adequate. Integral tank gave about 1 -
1.5 hours endurance, meaning that I often had to re-fuel at sea, when
doing protracted passages without wind. This is not ideal. Great advantage
of this engine is it weighs about 22kg - meaning that it can be removed
from the well fairly easily - when at your berth, to flush and keep
in the dry - when at sea, if you get rope/nets etc round your prop. Q: Can you recommend a good book about boat maintenance?
A:
Visit the following website: http://eu.wiley.com/WileyCDA/Section/id-291490.html
The ‘Simple Boat Maintenance’ book is a must! Very well presented.
Q: Can you tell me the dimensions of the sails for my Hurley as I want to buy some new ones?
A: It is always best to use your old sails as a template or get the sail maker to measure the luff, leach and foot of your boom, mast and forestay. Genoa measurements given by Hurley will be of no use as you might now have furling gear. Does your furling gear have a top swivel? Are you sure that your mast and rig is original or has not been cut down a little to remove corrosion? Mast sizes varied on Hurley yachts. Masts were built in-house and dimensions changed frequently as the boats evolved. Few boats are exactly the same so beware of copying other peoples sails as this could turn out to be a costly mistake. Lots of people have been there and got the tee-shirt. There is no such thing as a stock size-off the shelf Hurley sail.
Q: I need a second hand set of sails for my Hurley
A: It is unlikely that anyone will want to sell a set of serviceable second hand sails. Hurley yachts are mostly cheaper/smaller yachts that owners often run on a tight budget. They will make sails last and like me use the old set of sails for winter sailing. Second hand sails will probably be shot or from a boat that has been broken up. Put an ad for sails wanted on our For Sale page, ask on the Yahoo Group or try Ebay.
HURLEY OWNERS YAHOO FORUM GROUP Q: What is the address of the Hurley Owners Yahoo Forum group?
A: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hurleyowners/
REPLACING BACKING PADS AND MAST SUPPORT PADS ON A HURLEY 22 Q: The backing pads and mast support pad on my Hurley 22 are rotten. How do I replace them?
A: The plywood plates are backing plates. They do not need to be very well attached by resin and matting as they are held in place by the objects that they are backing. I.e by the bolts and screws that fasten down deck fittings such as winches and stanchion bases etc. The mast compression pad under the deck plate is held in compression and again will not need to be well glassed in.
It would be a good idea to replace the plywood mast compression pad, deck plate bolts and sealant between deck plate and coachroof mast support pad as the seal often breaks down allowing the pad to become sodden. Water will also leak into the accommodation through the deck plate holes. It would also be a good idea to replace the deck gear backing pads as a precaution. You will need to remove the old pads with an angle grinder and then glass in new marine plywood pads using resin and matting. Hold the new pads in place with wooden posts jammed between the saloon sole and the pad until the resin has set. REPLACING CHAIN PLATES ON A HURLEY 22
Q: How do I replace the chainplates on my Hurley 22? They are loose and are leaking.
A: The most secure way is to remove the old chainplate, screws and backing pad and remove all traces of the GRP matting and resin that secures them to the inside of the hull and deck. Glue new backing pad/pacers to the inside of the hull with glass fibre matting and resin. Screw or bolt the cleaned up chainplates to the plywood pads and seal the deck area with sikoflex from the underside. Using screws will be secure enough but using round head bolts or machine screws through the hull will be even stronger but will look a bit ugly. You can buy covers that go over the chainplates on the deck that hide any Sikoflex and help reduce leakage. I can’t stand the sight of thick sealant. Sikoflex is promoted as a glue but is really only a sealant and should not be relied upon for strength and attaching fittings together. Sikoflex is rubber. You should not use any products with silica or silicone on a boat as the acetic acid used to cure it damages stainless steel.
Some members have fabricated stainless steel gussets that spread the load of the chainplates between the deck and hull. These web like, L-shaped gussets look triangular from the side view and fit inside the yacht from under the deck and run down the hull for about 150mm. They are usually bolted to the hull by two stainless steel machine screws with dome heads or counter sunk slotted heads. IF CS is used you can cover the heads in white gelcoat to hide. They are then bolted to the deck using a ‘D’, ‘A’ or ‘U’ bolt which also acts as the tang on which to attach the shroud bottle screw (turnbuckle) toggle fork. Many Hurley owners have by now had to replace chainplates. SUPPLY OF SAILS, SAIL COVERS, DODGERS, SPRAYHOODS, UPHOLSTERY FOR HURLEYS Q: Who can you recommend to supply a sail cover, dodgers, sprayhood, upholstery and sails for my Hurley? A: Quay Canvas of Southampton are excellent and cheap. They give discounts for Hurleys. Ring 02380 407441 ask for Rene (rbrent@uk2.net) and mention that you have a Hurley and that Nick sent you for a discount They can be recommended for small sails, covers, sprayhoods, sail covers, dodgers and upholstery.
Q: Who can deliver my Hurley by road?
A: Chris Collins. Owner driver. See www.boat-towing.co.uk or contact him at info@boat-towing.co.uk or 07920 475767 02380 410822 He has transported my Hurley by road and did an excellent job.
HURLEY ROLLER REEFING MAINSAIL
Q: Should I replace the roller reefing on my Hurley with a slab reefing sytem?
A:Roller reefing can be a good method of reefing a mainsail but not as fast and simple as slab reefing. Have you got a reefing claw for the kicking strap? If not you can buy one new at Retreat Boatyard, Topsham, Devon. If you don't have a claw it might have been lost or broken. How do you attach the kicking strap to the boom at present?Your boom might have been fitted with a riveted on U fitting? This will dig into and damage the mainsail as the sail is wound onto the boom.You need to remove it and use the cumbersome claw with inhaul and outhaul ropes.
Slab reefing is more efficient and faster but you will need to have cringle eyes fitted to the sail. What condition is the mainsail in? If it is worn a sailmaker might refuse to fit it with cringle eyes and reefing ropes as it might be a waste of money. A new sail will come with reefing cringles as standard. You might need to service your roller reefing mechanism. They often seize up. You might need a new roller-reefing handle? Retreat sell those too. The single line slab reefing lines are led to the cockpit on my 22. You are welcome to look at the system and measure up. I would look in the HOA directory and find a member near to you. Then contact them and ask to have a look at their system. Or better still go out for a sail with them? Then go on a rally and compare sails? Nick Vass Q. I'm buying a new mainsail for my Hurley 22, How do I find a copy of the sail logo that my sailmaker can use? A. The images (JPEGs) below have been traced from a Hurley 22 mainsail. They are meant to be printed out at A4 size and then stuck together. Printing out directly from the screen does not seem to work properly. Click on the link below and when the image opens, right click on it and then select Save Picture as.... to save the picture on your computer and then print it out in the normal way
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