Sacrificial
Anodes and Galvanic Isolators
Cross
Channel Papers
H27 Hull numbers
H22 stiff rudder
H22 Toilet Replacement
Portsmouth
Yardsticks
How do
you unstep the mast on a Hurley 22
Hurley
22 Replacement Rudder Tube
Rubbing Strakes and Washboards
Hurley 22 weight
Insurance
for older Hurleys
Weather
Helm
Boat
Numbers
Splitting
Rudders
Rubbing Strakes
Ball-Hed Toilets
Hurley
22 Toilets
Ballast
Ratios and Ballast
Hurley 22 Outboards
Boat Maintenance Books
Sail Dimensions
Hurley Owners Yahoo Forum Group
Replacing backing pads and mast support pads on
a Hurley 22
Replacing Chain Plates on a Hurley 22
Supply of Sails, Sail Covers, Dodgers, Spray Hoods,
Upholstery for Hurleys
Hurley Roller Reefing Main Sail
Sail Logos
SACRIFICIAL
ANODES AND GALVANIC ISOLATORS
Q:
We have a small sacrificial anode fitted to the propeller shaft
of our Hurley 24/70 but no hull anode. The propeller shaft anode quickly
depletes and is a pain to replace as it means that the yacht has to
be lifted out of the water every six months. Is there any way to fit
a larger anode without going to the trouble of fitting a traditional
‘pear—shaped hull anode? Adrian and Sian Hawkins. Hurley
24/70 ‘Larc’. Cardiff
A:
We also have only a small, sacrificial anode fitted to the prop. I
made up an anode that can be frequently replaced and costs very little.
I attached a conventional pear-shaped zinc anode to a length of 4mm
galvanised,steel wire and lower it over the side when the yacht is
on her mooring. The other end of the wire is bolted to the engine
block and is electrically bonded in exactly the same way as a hull
anode. It’s very easy to monitor the loss of the anode but you
would need to pull it up when you go sailing. I put ours in a small
bucket to keep the cockpit locker clean. I bought the galvanised wire
from B&Q very cheaply. The wire is PVC coated so it does not stain
or mark the gelcoat. Nick Vass
Q:
I have been experiencing extreme wastage on the sacrificial anodes
fitted to my Hurley 27’s hull and propeller shaft. I like to
leave a de-humidifier plugged into shore power through the winter
and I have been told that this will not help. I have been advised
to fit a galvanic isolator, whatever that is? What is a galvanic isolator
and how does it work? Mark Hughes, Poole
A:
Before talking about galvanic isolators I first must explain what
makes your anodes waste. Corrosion results from different metals found
on boats exchanging electrons. Metals have loosely attached electrons
and some will readily give them up compared to other metals. Galvanic
corrosion occurs because the various metals used in a boat have different
electrical potential properties. The different potentials (willingness
to give up electrons) are measured on what is called a ‘galvanic
scale’. We fit zinc sacrificial anodes because zinc is higher
on the galvanic scale and will be eroded away well before your bronze
or stainless steel hull fittings. Zinc is also present in the alloy
bronze, the zinc is easily dissolved away turning your bronze fitting
into copper and making it weak and unsafe.
The
metal that gives ‘waste-away’ electrons is called the anode.
The metal that receives the electrons is the cathode, but the metals
can’t exchange electrons unless an electrolyte such as seawater
is present. A zinc anode protects cathodes such as bronze seacocks.
Once the zinc anode has been sacrificed, the seacocks will become
an anode and the zinc content in the bronze alloy will waste away
in favour of the stainless steel propeller shaft. This transfer of
electrons is an electrical current and is exploited to good effect
in a battery.
Small
electrical currents will always travel between the metal skin fittings
and components. The seawater is an excellent electrolyte and the whole
circuit creates a big battery. Currents will also travel between the
metal components of your boat and that of other boats nearby. The
problem could be worse if you have a steel or aluminium boat close
by or if the marina’s docks and pontoons are made from steel.
Sunken/discarded objects in the water around you such as old anchors
and lost outboard motors can be a big problem. Joining boats together
via shore power ground wires will speed up the galvanic corrosion
process.
Your
shore power 230-volt lead will be earthed at the pontoon socket end
to the ground close to the waters edge on the land. The ground or
earth wire (green and yellow) will be connected to a metal rod that
is literately pushed into the ground and therefore wired to allow
any stray currents to dissipate away instead of harming people or
property. Your yachts 230-volt shore power inlet socket will be protected
by an earth wire that ‘grounds’ the yellow and green earth
wire to the sea water via your anode, keel, lightening grounding plate,
propeller shaft, ‘P’-bracket or engine block. Potentailly
dangerous stray currents will always find the fastest way ‘to
ground’ as they would in your home.
The
problem is that there is an electro-chemical potential difference
between the land and the sea of about 0.7 volt.
Another
word for a galvanic isolator is an ‘isolator transformer’.
It de-couples the earth ground from the sea ground. There might still
be a magnetic couple between the sea around your boat and the marina’s
ground wire and this magnetic coupling might show on an oscilloscope
but this phantom voltage will disappear as soon as a load is placed
on the yachts electrical system. In other words the boat and the ground
would appear to be connected but no DC coupling will be found if a
galvanic isolator is fitted.
By
fitting a galvanic isolator you isolate the yacht's ground safety
system from the marina’s power supply thus cutting out the small
potential difference between the two entities and so stopping 0.7-volts
from passing through metal components of your yacht. It is this movement
of electricity which could be depleting your anodes due to galvanic
corrosion.
The
galvanic isolator is fitted in-line into the ground wire of your shore-power
system. Simply cut the ground/earth wire close to the boats inlet
socket and connect up the two ends to the isolators two in and out
terminals. The galvanic isolator will also disconnect your boat from
the marina’s main earth but will automaticly re-connect should
there be a fault.
CROSS
CHANNEL PAPERS
Q:
What papers do I need for a cross channel passage?
A:
CROSS CHANNEL PAPERS CHECKLIST
Guide for HOA members. Care has been taken in compiling this guide
but no liability is accepted for inaccuracies or omissions
-
Passport
-
EHIC
(European Health Insurance Card) Not valid in Guernsey - pay full
amount for treatment
-
Travel
Insurance. (Will usually cover Guernsey)
-
Vessel
Insurance Certificate
-
Ships
Papers. (SSR)
-
Ships
Radio Licence
-
Radio
Operators Licence
-
Proof
of VAT. For older vessels, with no original VAT receipt, using
Bill of Sale is acceptable to show that Tax Status is the responsibility
of the UK Customs.
-
Certificate
of competence (ICC ideal), obligatory with CEVNI endorsement for
inland waterways. Rules differ in many countries.
-
Copy
of CEVNI rules if using inland waterways. RYA book of EuroRegs
OK
-
From
April 2012 it will be illegal for any vessels to use red diesel
in the EU. Only within the 12-mile limit of British territorial
waters will it be legal. Any vessel found using it in France and
Belgium will be open to prosecution and fines.
-
If
flares are carried, they MUST be in date particularly in France
where it is not permitted to carry any out of date ones on board.
-
Liferaft
service certificate (In date)
-
Customs
clearance only needed for Channel Islands
-
Courtesy
National flag flown from Starboard spreader
Sources
- mainly PBO no. 538 p72 + RYA
HURLEY
27 HULL NUMBERS
Q:
Have you any idea where on board a Hurley 27, I might find a hull
identification number? I've looked high and low to no avail.
A:
I pressume that you are filling out a form such as CG66, Ofcom VHF
or SSR application? If you tell me your sail number I can tell you
your boat number from our records and the original Hurley Marine sales
ledgers.Your Sail Number will be a one or two figure number 1 to 91.Your
Boat number will be a four figure number beginning with the prefix
5, which denotes the 27 model (for other models see Boat
Numbers below). For example 5023 was the 23rd Hurley 27 built.
Ninety
one 27s were built between 1971 and Feb 1974. Five of them were sold
as kits and so were not issued with a Hurley Boat Number or Sail Number.
Sail Numbers ran from 1 to 91. I am looking at the sales ledgers now
and can see blank spaces in the boat number and sail number columns
against some invoice numbers.
When I have inspected Hurley 27s myself, I have found the four figure
boat number 5xxx stamped onto the underside of locker lids, inside
cupboard doors and onto the underside of the saloon sole board. Boat
numbers were also painted onto the underside of the GRP main hatch
garage.
You will not have a Hull Identification Number! The HIN or now known
as CIN (Craft Identification Number as the system includes inflatables
without rigid hulls) was an American idea that only caught on in the
UK and EU with the introduction of the RCD in 1998.
Nick
HURLEY
22 STIFF RUDDER
Q:
Why are the tiller and rudder of my Hurley 22 so stiff?
A:
Your Hurley 22 would have a galvanised steel rudder tube. There
would be a simple bush at the top and bottom of the tube as the tube
exits the hull at the bottom and exits the superstructure moulding
at the top. You will not have a rudder post gland. Glands were used
on later SCM boats around 1975. No spares are available as Hurley
Marine folded in 1974.
The
stainless steel (or sometimes bronze) rudder post is a 1" rod
that is glassed into the inside of the rudder blade. It might be supported
by a skeg or if it is of the semi-balanced sbare type it will be supported
by a pin through the post above the top rudder tube bush. This stops
the rudder falling out with gravity.The tiller stock is attached to
the rudder post by simple bolts and it should be obvious how to remove
it.
It is possible that rust and dirt has built up inside the rusty galvanised
tube and is preventing the rudder post from turning. It is possible
that water will lubricate the bushes and the gunge in the tube when
launched but it sounds as if you now need to replace the tube. They
are galvanised steel scaffolding pipes and its a wonder that it has
lasted this long.You will need to cut an inspection hatch into the
aft end of the cockpit and you will need to loose some girth around
your middle as you will need to crawl under the cockpit sole to cut
away the old tube. No spares are available so you will need to measure
up and have a new tube made out of stainless steel. Bushes can be
made top and bottom but will need to be specially turned by a marine
engineer or precision engineer. (bloke with a lathe in a shed will
do!). Details of how people have had new tubes made are on the technical
pages.
HURLEY
22 TOILET REPLACEMENT
Q:
How do I replace the toilet on my Hurley 22? Is it dificult and will
a new Jabsco toilet fit? I have an old SL400 which no longer works.
A: I replaced my Simpson Lawrence SL400 for another SL400 that
I re-built and serviced. It was not possible to remove the nuts from
under the GRP toilet compartment moulding in my Hurley 24 so I left
them in place. For some reason the base of the replacement SL400 had
holes at different spacing so I fitted it using self tapping screws.
This worked well. The SL400 is still available brand new from Lee
Sanitation Ltd in the Midlands. However it is four times the price
of a Jabsco or PAR/Jabsco at £400. When Simpson Lawrence closed
and was taken over by Lewmar, a chap who worked in the factory pulled
the tooling for the SL400 out of a skip and eventually set up a small
cottage industry factory building them. Unfortunately Lewmar found
out and realised that they owned the rights to make the SL400 and
have tried to close him down.
I have fitted Jabsco Compacts into Hurley 22's but they are too tall.
You need to do without the seat and file away the plastic base of
the pump unit. You also need to throw away the plastic pump handle
as it is too tall and fit a shallow plastic knob. You would need to
get a knob from a DIY shop and tap an M10 thread to fit onto the pump
spindle.
You will need to remove the heads of the retaining bolts with an angle
grinder. However, most of the ones that I have done were simply bolts
that were glassed into the base from below. All I had to do was to
undo the nuts and retract the toilet. I then ground the bolts flush
with the bottom of the moulding with an angle grinder.
We have a Jabsco on our new boat. It's great and a good product! With
two children it gets some use! However, the Jabsco is a big loo! H
400mm, W 450 and depth 410.
The Hurley 22 also came new with a Raritan toilet! You could fit a
Raritan directly as it is smaller and might
even use the same bolt footprint! The same model of Raritan that was
fitted to the Hurley 22 is still in production! Its called the Raritan
Compact II now. H 340mm, w 432mm, Depth 420mm. However, they are American
and I'm not sure if they supply the UK anymore? Leesan sell the bigger
Raritan PH model but the compact is not shown on the website. The
Raritan Compact II is exactly the same as the ones taken out of Hurleys.
Lee Sanitation appear to be expensive compared to chandlers
Another good loo is the new Thetford Comfortmate.
This toilet has a separate pump unit and will go into tight spaces.
This toilet is so new that it is not yet on the website. I came across
it in a review of the company in a US trade magazine called Professional
Boat Builder. I did not realise that Thetford was a Dutch company!
I presumed that they were from Thetford in Norfolk.
I have several Raritan toilets and two SL400's behind my shed if you
need to offer up for size?
Nick
Vass
Note:
One of our members reports that "the Jabsco Compact Twist
& Lock Toilet has a height of 330mm with the handle locked. So
in it went, the only modifiction being cutting the three bolts off
and drilling four new holes for the self tapping screws and there
you are, a brand new toilet.(ps. the handle must be locked down)."
PORTSMOUTH
YARDSTICKS
Q:
What is the PY Number for my Hurley?
A; The Portsmouth Yardstick numbers for Hurley boats are as
follows;
| Boat |
Portsmouth
Yardstick |
| Silhouette
MkII |
1214 |
| Silhouette
MkIII |
1234 |
| Hurley
18 |
1157 |
| Hurley
20 fin |
1126 |
| Hurley
20 bilge |
? |
| Felicity |
? |
| Hurley
22 fin |
1137 |
| Hurley
22 bilge |
1137 |
| Hurley
24/70 fin |
1125
1B2 F 1262 |
| Hurley
24/70 bilge |
? |
| Hurley
27 |
1098 |
| Hurley
30/90 |
1100 |
This
table will be completed as further information becomes available
UNSTEPPING
THE MAST ON A HURLEY 22
Q:
How do you un-step the mast on a Hurley 22?
A:
The easiest and safest way to Unstep a mast is to ask your nearest
boatyard or marina's crane driver to do it for you. They will tie
a rope around the mast, above the centre of gravity, and support its
weight by the crane's strop. They will then slacken the bottle screws
one by one and then remove the split pins and crevice pins from the
top toggle or fork of the bottlescrew where they meet the cap shrouds,
lower shrouds, backstay(s), babystay and forestay. They will then
tidy the shrouds by tying a rope around them, securing them to the
mast. They will then remove the pins through the tabernacle or deck
'T' plate. The mast will then be raised away from the yacht and then
lowered onto the ground or a pair of trestles for you to carry away
to a mast rack etc.You will be expected to un-bend the sails from
the boom and forestay foil and to remove the kicking strap and boom
fitted slab-reefing ropes etc.
Having
a crane do this will cost around £100 but will be stress free
and ensure that you don't drop the mast on the coachroof or knock
someone's teeth out should the foot of the mast spring up in an assistant's
face.If you choose to un-step the mast without the use of a crane
or dolphin device you should do the following:
H22
REPLACEMENT RUDDER TUBE
Q:
Who can make me a new stainless steel Hurley 22 Replacement Rudder
Tube?
A:
Ryan at The Metal Clinic Ltd. Unit 6 Eastlands Boat Yard, Coal Park
Lane, Swanwick, Southampton S031 7GW
Tel:
01489 582264 www.themetalclinic.co.uk
RUBBING
STRAKES AND WASHBOARDS
Q:
Who can make me some new washboards and replace my Hurley's rubbing
strakes?
A: David Rickard has just replaced
my (Nick's) rubbing strakes on my Hurley 24. Last year he made Omega
some new washboards. They fit and look perfect. The rubbing strakes
are superb and are in teak. Lifts the whole look of the boat. David
did the work quickly, without fuss and for a very reasonable sum.
I can warmly recommend him. Plus David has a Hurley himself!
HURLEY
22 WEIGHT
Q:
How much does a Hurley 22 weigh?
A: A Hurley 22 would be roughly two metric tonnes. That is
2,000kg or two tonnes. The advertised weight of a dry, just out of
factory, Hurley 22 was 1,769 kg (3,900lb). Howver, the working weight
with fuel and clobber would be more like 2,400kg (5,500lb) depending
on how many pies you eat? A metric tonne is 1,000kg. An Imperial ton
is 1,016 kg (2,240 lb). The Hurley 22 would therefore be 1.7 tons
imperial dry or 2.4 tons imperial under normal cruising conditions
The
imperial ton was something to do with the weight of a barrel of wine?
The
Thames Measurement (TM) of a Hurley 22 would be 4.3 tons That is a
formular derived from length of hull x distance from ballast to gunwhale
in inches x 1.2 This is not the weight of the boat! It was a figure
arrived at to
estimate the cargo capacity of a ship and therefore how much money
to charge to berth it. It is now called the Tonnage Measurement as
it is now metric. So now mean length x Beam x mean height of inside
of hull x 0.35.
INSURANCE
FOR OLDER HURLEYS
Q.
Can you kindly suggest a good insurance company that deals with older
H22s?
A.
Try Simon Winter Marine and mention Nick Vass's
name. Simon is a specialist on small older craft. You could also try
GJW Direct.
DISCLAIMER.
HOA take no responsibility for any dealings between a member and an
insurance company
WEATHER
HELM
Q:
How do I reduce the weatherhelm on my Hurley 22?
A: Hurley Marine altered the shape of the Hurley 22 rudder
in 1972, increasing its size by 1.3 square foot. The newer shape rudder
is shown on the Technical page. It is
the same as the Ravensail/Hurlwind/Blaxton mould. Increasing the size
of the rudder is not a total solution to the problem as a larger rudder
can in itself be a disadvantage.
A
small amount of weatherhelm is desirable, as it gives you a feel for
the helm but if weatherhelm is excessive you have to put the helm
hard over, effectively putting the brakes on as the rudder would sit
at a right angle and act as a flap. A ‘balanced boat’ is
referred to when the forces put on the hull by both sails when it
turns on its central line of lateral resistance are equal. That is
when both the genoa and mainsail are equally balancing the boat out
laterally.
My
Hurley 24 can often be described as well balanced. The high aspect
rig with narrow main and large genoa balance the boat well but give
a little weatherhelm which feels reassuring as the boat would round
up into the wind should I fall overboard. More weatherhelm is felt
during strong winds when the genoa is furled in and the mainsail takes
over as the main source of propulation. Although the masts are nearly
the same height, the Hurley 22 sail plan is very different. The mainsail
is comparatively larger. In fact the sail area of the 22 is more despite
the displacement being very different!
| H22
disp 1,769 kg Sail Area 24 sq m |
H24
disp 2,285kg Sail Area 20 sq m |
Therefore
I would conclude that reefing in and balancing the boat by effective
reefing and good quality sails is of paramount importance and a more
effective way of reducing weatherhelm on a Hurley 22 than the size
of the rudder alone.
Weatherhelm
on a Hurley 22 can be managed by reducing the size of the mainsail
or increasing the size of the genoa/jib. This adjustment in sail area
and relocation of the main driving force can be described as moving
the centre of effort. The opposite to weatherhelm is leehelm.
Weatherhelm
is the tendency for a yacht to round up into the wind. If the helmsman
has to pull the tiller towards him or her to make the boat go in a
straight line then the boat is said to ‘carry weatherhelm’.
The hull of a Hurley 22 turns on a point called the Centre of Lateral
Resistance (CLR.). The CLR is the central area of the underwater profile
of the yacht. The wind force on a sail creates a point called the
Centre of Effort (CE). Both the main and the jib/genoa have their
own CE. Both CE points combine and create the boat's Centre of Effort.
If the boa's CE is aligned with the CLR then the boat will be balanced.
On
the Hurley 22 the CE is often aft of the CLR. The pressure of the
wind turns the stern away and the bow towards the wind creating excessive
weatherhelm. At this point the main should be reefed. The hull shape
of the Hurley 22 makes a big difference too. The Hurley 22 has overhangs
at the bow and stern so that the wetted area of the hull is kept low
when the vessel is upright but the waterline length is increased when
the boat is heeled over when sailing. The Hurley 22 is narrow compared
to modern yachts and carries its beam just forward of the CE. This
means that when the boat is heeled over the buoyant beamy part of
the boat kicks in and tries to float up, pushing the bows around to
windward thus creating forces exacerbating the weatherhelm. The Hurley
22 widens dramatically as you look at the profile above the waterline.
Modern boats carry their beam much further aft making the boats a
lot lighter on the helm.
The
maximum speed of a hull is around 1.4 times the square root of the
waterline length in feet (or x 3.28 in metres). Therefore the hull
speed is greater when the hull is heeled over and the faster the Hurley
will go but conversely the more rudder is needed, putting on the brakes
and slowing the boat down. It was considered that a slim boat was
a fast boat, as seen on Bloodhound for example. Modern boats are very
beamy and blisteringly fast but need to be sailed upright as their
waterline length does not increase much when heeled as they have stubby
bow stems and flat transoms.
So,
try trimming and reefing your sails before you buy a bigger rudder.
Nick
HULL/BOAT/YARD/ORDER
NUMBERS
Q:
Where is my Hull/Yard/Boat/Order Number displayed?
A: Your Order/Hull/Boat Number should be displayed on a small
metal plate in the cabin, screwed to the mast support transverse beam.
However, they are often missing, as after 40 years they simply fall
off and get lost. It might be stencilled onto the inside of locker
lids or other pieces of joinery such as the saloon sole boards or
on the underside of the forepeak infill. It will be a four-figure
number starting with 3. (Hurley 20 example). The number will be close
to but not the same as the 1,2 or 3 figure Sail Number. For example.
A Hurley 20 based in Sweden 'Stella Maris' has Sail Number 295 and
Order/Boat/Hull Number 3306.
Hurley
called the Hull Number the Boat Number but in other documents they
refer to it as the Order Number and even Yard Number. All amounts
to the same thing. The Hurley 20 prefix was 3. You don't need the
above info to join if it has been lost in the passage of time.
Prefix Numbers
are as follows:
| Silhouette |
1 |
| Alacrity |
5 |
| Felicity |
No
prefix. Same as Sail Number prefixed by F |
| Hurley
18 |
7 |
| Hurley
20 |
3 |
| Hurley
22 |
8 |
| Hurley
24/70 |
6 |
| Hurley
27 |
5
(I don't know why it is the same as the Alacrity) |
| Hurley
30/90 |
9 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
Hurley
22 Hull Number Plate
|
Hurley
22 Hull Number Stamp
|
Hurley
22 Hull Number Stamp
|
|
Nick
SPLITTING
RUDDERS
Q:
The rudder has split apart on my Hurley 20. Is it because the tangs
rudder post and tangs have become corroded causing them to expend
and crack the rudder shells apart?
A: I had to rebuild the rudder on my Hurley 20 due to corrosion on
the stainless post where it exits the boat. I used a grinder with
a thin cutting disk to cut around the periphery of the rudder, then
split the two halves, removed the old rudder post and tangs. Glued
the two halves back together with epoxy resin and filled the perimeter
of the blade with thickened epoxy. One other thing I did was use a
dremel tool to router a cove where the stainless rudder post enters
the top of the rudder blade and exits the bottom of the rudder blade.
I filled this cove with 3M5200. The reason for this mod is that the
flexible 5200 is less likely to let water into the rudder than the
brittle epoxy.
The rudder was then filled with expanding polyurethane foam and the
sinker and riser holes for the foam filled with epoxy filler. Darren
(See also the Rudder Page in the
Technical Section)
A:
I recently had the same problem with my early H22 "Dreamer".
It is caused by water ingress to the rudder blade moulding causing
the tangs to rust and expand. I have replaced the post and tangs with
a stainless fabrication which was made using the old as a pattern.
My bearings were a little worn but rather than replace the bearings
which looked as though it might have been awkward the post was made
1/8th inch oversize which fortuitously fitted perfectly. The blade
necessitated moulds being made from the old blade which were bonded
to the fabrication and filled with foam. I was lucky enough to come
across a part-made replacement from an ex Hurley owner and the only
difficulty was that the top of the post being oversize did not fit
the stock so had to be turned down. It is also necessary to be accurate
in the alignment of the holes for the top bolts or you will find that
the tiller will be slightly offset when in a straight line. Hope this
helps - Ian C
A: The original Hurley 20, 22 and 24/70 rudder moulds are stored
for us at Blaxton Boats. www.blaxtonboats.co.uk
Maurice recently made a new rudder for a Hurley 24. Both spade and
scimitar rudders are kept for the H22.
I did the same as Darren and Ian to my Hurley 20 in 1986. The tangs
had corroded causing them to expand and crack the rudder shells apart.
The shells were split, foam ground out, rudder post and tangs replaced
and whole lot glued back together with epoxy. Nick
RUBBING
STRAKES
Q:
What is the rubbing strake on my Hurley 22 made from?
A: Your original rubbing strake and raised gunwale capping
would have most likely been made from iroko - screwed into place at
6" intervals with No8 1" stainless steel screws. Hurley
Marine tended to use iroko rather than teak but did swap materials
around. Please see H22 brochure on brochures page. I have replaced
mine with teak which is easier to bend and more weather resistant
but more expensive. Hurley would have used iroko as it is cheaper
but does much the same job. Both woods are from the same family and
are treated with teak oil or ‘Deks Olje’. Iroko is better
for the environment as it is farmed. Proper teak trees have to be
about 80 years old before they are any good and are a rainforest wood.
(I used recycled ex science lab worktops). Please see pictures on
the Technical Page
BALL-HED
TOILETS IN ALACRITYS
Q:
I have a Ball-Hed sea toilet fitted to my Hurley built Alacrity.
Where can I get spares?
A: Under no circumstances should you go to sea with an
American 'Ball-Hed' sea toilet in your boat! Most have thankfully
been removed by now but some still remain. The Ball-Hed sea toilet
used one large hole for both flushing water in and waste exit.
This hole was much larger than other heads with separate inlet
and outlet. The 'Ball-Hed' was flushed by sealing down a rubber
diaphragm and pumping it up and down with a knob fitted to its
centre to draw water in and push waste out. As far as I know no
one supplies spares. You will need to glass over the huge hole
in your boat with resin and matting and create two new holes for
proper skin fittings and seacocks when you fit a safer loo like
a Jabsco compact.
|
Click on image for a larger version |
HURLEY
22 TOILETS
Q:
What toilet would have been fitted new to my Hurley 22?
A: The Hurley 22 would have been fitted with a 'Compact' sea
toilet made in the USA by Raritan Engineering Co, Millville, NJ. The
model was called the 'Compact'. Or it would have been fitted with
a Simpson Lawrence SL400 which was made in Glasgow. The SL400 was
a very low loo. Both are available from Lee Sanitaion but are expensive.
A modern Jabsco Compact sea toilet will fit but you will have to do
without the seat and lid so that it will fit under the forepeak infil/toilet
cover. You will need to replace the plastic handle with a flatter
knob because of the height restrictions and file a bit off the right
hand side of the pump unit to make it fit.
The SL400 was fitted to the H24/70, H27 and 30/90 but a Jabsco will
easily fit into the heads compartment.
BALLAST
RATIOS AND BALLAST
Q:
What is the ballast ratio of my Hurley and what is the ballast made
from? Also why does it heel over so much?
A:
The displacement of the Hurley 18 was 1,100 kg. The ballast was 450kg
giving a ballast ratio of just under 41%. Most fin or long keel Hurleys
have a similar ballast ratio. However the boats aren’t that beamy
and so have a slightly low buoyancy ratio compared to modern flat-bottomed
beamy yachts. The Hurley 18s that I have sailed performed very well
but they are only 18' and have a waterline length not much longer
than a big dinghy. The Hurley 22 is stiffer; the 27 stiffer still
and of course the 30 are stiffer still.
The
Ian Anderson yachts were inspired by the Folkboat but had slightly
shorter keels to give better turning performance. Other Folk boat
derived designs also heel a bit alarmingly as they lack buoyancy.
No harm in that though. Other examples include the Contessa 26, Achilles,
Twister, Varne 27 and Cutlass 27 etc.
The
Hurley 18 had several builders after the demise of Hurley Marine.
Including Arthur Curnow Ltd and so knowing the exact material used
for the ballast will be problematic. It is most likely that lead shot
was used. Although I have known of a Hurley 22 with iron shot, which
expanded cracking open the keel part of the hull. Steel strips were
used on early Hurley 22s to help spread the loads of the ballast material
over the keel part of the hull. I have seen several Hurley 22s and
a Hurley 24/70 where cracks have appeared around these 2" wide
strips. This has happened where moisture has entered the keel area
over the years and rusted the strips. Air will be present around the
shot balls. The strips then expand outwards into the GRP as they rust
as the compacted shot allows less movement.
Hurley
would have used lead shot as choice as it does not rust and is heavy
but the shot would sometimes be contaminated by scrap metal and even
old nuts, bolts and screws. Cast lead ballast would have been a better
and heavier option as air voids would not be possible between the
shot balls and the cast lead would not settle and create air pocket
voids. It is possible that the voids that you have seen are due to
settling or compacting of the shot. It might also be because the shot
has stuck together in places and formed air pockets in others. You
do however, still get air voids in cast lead ballast keels. For example
I have surveyed several Contessa 26S and 32s with voids
in the keel. They have cast lead ballast blocks dropped into the GRP
moulded keel. Inevitably spaces will occur as the keel block would
be difficult to make in an exact fit shape.
Hurley
liked to use shot as it was cheaper and they did not have to use a
foundry to cast the keel. Most components of the boats were made in
house and George Hurley liked to be self-sufficient. Lead shot could
be bought in as a commodity. I would imagine that they might have
used other filler metals as the cost of lead went up? The ballast
material would then have been flow coated over with resin and matting
to make it watertight. But moisture can get in
around the steel straps that some early Hurley's have to help position
the ballast. Nick
HURLEY
22 OUTBOARDS
Q:
What kind of outboard should I buy for my Hurley 22?
A(By Tim): You need a long-shaft, sail-drive outboard. Sail-drive
means a high-thrust prop, plus optional battery charging.
I
have had 4 seasons with a Mariner 4HP Sailmate, 2-stroke. This is
the minimum HP, although it was generally adequate. Integral tank
gave about 1 - 1.5 hours endurance, meaning that I often had to re-fuel
at sea, when doing protracted passages without wind. This is not ideal.
Great advantage of this engine is it weighs about 22kg - meaning that
it can be removed from the well fairly easily - when at your berth,
to flush and keep in the dry - when at sea, if you get rope/nets etc
round your prop.
I have just bought a Tohatsu 6HP, 4-stroke, Sail Drive. This has an
external 12l tank and I am hoping to get great endurance. Also it
is very quiet. Like the Mariner, it weights only about 23k - in fact
it is basically the same engine - but with different carbuation etc.
A number of members recomended this engine.
If you go for 8HP or over, the engines start to weigh-in at 30kg+.
This I think would make frequent removal from the well rather difficult.
BOAT
MAINTENANCE BOOKS
Q:
Can you recommend a good book about boat maintenance?
A:
‘Sailboat
Maintenance’ By Don Casey
‘Hull and Deck Repair’ by Don Casey (USA). ISBN 0 7136
4867 8
‘Simple Boat Maintenance’ Pat Manley (UK) ISBN 1 904475
02 7 available from Fernhurst Books
Visit the Wiley Nautical website.
The
‘Simple Boat Maintenance’ book is a must! Very well presented.
SAIL
DIMENSIONS
Q:
Can you tell me the dimensions of the sails for my Hurley as I want
to buy some new ones?
A:
It is always best to use your old sails as a template or get the sail
maker to measure the luff, leach and foot of your boom, mast and forestay.
Genoa measurements given by Hurley will be of no use as you might
now have furling gear. Does your furling gear have a top swivel?
Are
you sure that your mast and rig is original or has not been cut down
a little to remove corrosion?
Mast
sizes varied on Hurley yachts. Masts were built in-house and dimensions
changed frequently as the boats evolved. Few boats are exactly the
same so beware of copying other peoples sails as this could turn out
to be a costly mistake. Lots of people have been there and got the
tee-shirt.
There
is no such thing as a stock size-off the shelf Hurley sail.
Q:
I need a second hand set of sails for my Hurley
A:
It is unlikely that anyone will want to sell a set of serviceable
second hand sails. Hurley yachts are mostly cheaper/smaller yachts
that owners often run on a tight budget. They will make sails last
and like me use the old set of sails for winter sailing. Second hand
sails will probably be shot or from a boat that has been broken up.
Put
an ad for sails wanted on our For Sale page, ask on the Yahoo Group
or try Ebay.
HURLEY
OWNERS YAHOO FORUM GROUP
Q:
What is the address of the Hurley Owners Yahoo Forum group?
A:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hurleyowners/
REPLACING
BACKING PADS AND MAST SUPPORT PADS ON A HURLEY
22
Q:
The backing pads and mast support pad on my Hurley 22 are rotten.
How do I replace them?
A:
The plywood plates are backing plates. They do not need to be
very well attached by resin and matting as they are held in place
by the objects that they are backing. I.e by the bolts and screws
that fasten down deck fittings such as winches and stanchion bases
etc. The mast compression pad under the deck plate is held in compression
and again will not need to be well glassed in.
It
would be a good idea to replace the plywood mast compression pad,
deck plate bolts and sealant between deck plate and coachroof mast
support pad as the seal often breaks down allowing the pad to become
sodden. Water will also leak into the accommodation through the deck
plate holes. It would also be a good idea to replace the deck gear
backing pads as a precaution.
You
will need to remove the old pads with an angle grinder and then glass
in new marine plywood pads using resin and matting. Hold the new pads
in place with wooden posts jammed between the saloon sole and the
pad until the resin has set.
REPLACING
CHAIN PLATES ON A HURLEY 22
Q:
How do I replace the chainplates on my Hurley 22? They are loose and
are leaking.
A:
The most secure way is to remove the old chainplate, screws and
backing pad and remove all traces of the GRP matting and resin that
secures them to the inside of the hull and deck.
Glue
new backing pad/pacers to the inside of the hull with glass fibre
matting and resin. Screw or bolt the cleaned up chainplates to the
plywood pads and seal the deck area with sikoflex from the underside.
Using screws will be secure enough but using round head bolts or machine
screws through the hull will be even stronger but will look a bit
ugly.
You
can buy covers that go over the chainplates on the deck that hide
any Sikoflex and help reduce leakage. I can’t stand the sight
of thick sealant. Sikoflex is promoted as a glue but is really only
a sealant and should not be relied upon for strength and attaching
fittings together. Sikoflex is rubber. You should not use any products
with silica or silicone on a boat as the acetic acid used to cure
it damages stainless steel.
Some
members have fabricated stainless steel gussets that spread the load
of the chainplates between the deck and hull. These web like, L-shaped
gussets look triangular from the side view and fit inside the yacht
from under the deck and run down the hull for about 150mm. They are
usually bolted to the hull by two stainless steel machine screws with
dome heads or counter sunk slotted heads. IF CS is used you can cover
the heads in white gelcoat to hide. They are then bolted to the deck
using a ‘D’, ‘A’ or ‘U’ bolt which also
acts as the tang on which to attach the shroud bottle screw (turnbuckle)
toggle fork.
Many
Hurley owners have by now had to replace chainplates.
SUPPLY
OF SAILS, SAIL COVERS, DODGERS, SPRAYHOODS, UPHOLSTERY
FOR HURLEYS
Q:
Who can you recommend to supply a sail cover, dodgers, sprayhood,
upholstery and sails for my Hurley?
A:
Quay Canvas of Southampton are excellent and
cheap. They give discounts for Hurleys. Ask for Rene and mention that
you have a Hurley and that Nick sent you for a discount They can be
recommended for small sails, covers, sprayhoods, sail covers, dodgers
and upholstery.
A:
Darren says: If anyone is looking for a competitive source for sails,
I ordered mine from Lee Sails of Hong Kong
last year and was very happy with the result. $660 Canadian for a
loose footed, partial battened H20 Mainsail with two reef points,
4.93oz challenge high modulus dacron.
HURLEY
ROLLER REEFING MAINSAIL
Q:
Should I replace the roller reefing on my Hurley with a slab reefing
sytem?
A:Roller
reefing can be a good method of reefing a mainsail but not as fast
and simple as slab reefing.
Have
you got a reefing claw for the kicking strap? If not you can buy one
new at Retreat Boatyard, Topsham, Devon. If you don't have a claw
it might have been lost or broken.
How
do you attach the kicking strap to the boom at present?Your boom might
have been fitted with a riveted on U fitting? This will dig into and
damage the mainsail as the sail is wound onto the boom.You need to
remove it and use the cumbersome claw with inhaul and outhaul ropes.
Slab
reefing is more efficient and faster but you will need to have cringle
eyes fitted to the sail. What condition is the mainsail in? If it
is worn a sailmaker might refuse to fit it with cringle eyes and reefing
ropes as it might be a waste of money. A new sail will come with reefing
cringles as standard. You might need to service your roller reefing
mechanism. They often seize up. You might need a new roller-reefing
handle? Retreat sell those too. The single line slab reefing lines
are led to the cockpit on my 22. You are welcome to look at the system
and measure up.
I
would look in the HOA directory and find a member near to you. Then
contact them and ask to have a look at their system. Or better still
go out for a sail with them? Then go on a rally and compare sails?
Nick Vass
SAIL
LOGOS
Q.
I'm buying a new mainsail for my Hurley 22, How do I find a copy of
the sail logo that my sailmaker can use?
A.
The images (JPEGs) below have been traced from a Hurley 22
mainsail. They are meant to be printed out at A4 size and then stuck
together. Printing out directly from the screen does not seem to work
properly. Click on the link below and when the image opens, right
click on it and then select Save Picture as.... to save the
picture on your computer and then print it out in the normal way
Click
here for an electronic copy of a Hurley
20 sail logo
