OVERHAULING
THE CURRENT WINCHES ON VIXEN SCM H22 1980
DISMANTLING AND SERVICING
BY
KEVIN MITCHELL
Like
many pieces of deck hardware one is often led to believe they are more
complex than is in fact the case. I am sure more modern winches are
very different but those on my SCM H22, as seen in my photographs, do
not hold major surprises for the would be service engineer or Hurley
owner.
I had
read somewhere that it is a good idea to measure the diameter then mark
out in pencil the circumferrence of the winch and cut a hole in the
bottom of a small cardboard box and place it over the winch taping it
in place, that way anything likely to drop out won't be lost. Make sure
you have a good selection of tools, a clean rag and some suitable cleaning
and greasing agents. I have heard that diesel oil is a good lubricant
but since I have a petrol outboard I did not have any.
First,
extract the bolt from the top centre of the winch and slide the whole
drum upwards, the two lower pawls will come out of the lower train or
notched section of the drum but won't ping anywhere, as they are pivotted
under a plate and held in place with a small bolt. Both have a sprung
wire attached, which, when in use, hooks around the base of the central
shaft. Now you can separate the black top part of the winch from the
drum and this exposes the upper pawls. on its underside surface. The
drum is identical top and bottom with a rebated notched ring around
the whole inner circumferrence.
I worked
on the cockpit seat so as not to lose anything over the side and placed
the drum to one side then started with the base, cleaning the pawls
and their fittings without removing their retaining bolts. Although
one might consider it a sacrilege to use WD40 it is a good cleaner and
prior to re-lubricating I completely wiped all signs of it away with
kitchen towel. You could use a degreaser. Using a flat bladed screwdriver
I cleaned out each notch which the pawls click into, where there was
a build up of almost solid old lubricant. I then did the top in the
same way. Using some light marine grease I put the thinnest film around
all moving parts and the shaft before re assembly. There is a special
winch grease available but for such a small amount needed I decided
not to buy a whole tube or tub, maybe I will regret it in the future
but I've decided this is not a difficult job and propose to re-do it
on an annual basis so I'm sure all will be OK
I tackled the top first, by placing the top plate above the drum I positioned
one pawl into a notch then pushing against the spring of that one aligned
the drum and plate and with a thin bladed screwdriver poked the other
pawl inward until it too dropped into its nearest notch. Rest those
two components gently on the deck and get a length of waxed twine around
1 ft or 300mm long and place it around the two lower pawls and exert
a little pressure until they are both retracted under their plate, keeping
the pressure on with one hand slide the drum and the top section down
the shaft and into place and now pull one end of the twine and the pawls
both click out into their nearest notches, job done, apart from reinserting
the retaining bolt in the top of the winch housing and tightening up.
I had
serviced both winches within one and a half hours and was able to enjoy
my lunch feeling self-satisfied with another new job done and dusted
so take heart and don't be afraid, the older the winches, probably,
the simpler the mechanism!
Click on an image
to enlarge
|
|
|
1.
Before dismantling
|
2.
Before dismantling
|
3.
Winch handle in
|
|
|
|
4
Top of drum
|
5.
Top inverted, pawls visible
|
6.
Base in box
|
|
|
7.
Pawl in open position
|
8.
Top bolt out, twine visible
|